Statte, Solwaster

Statte, Solwaster

There are lots of places for a walk in the Ardennes. One that remains memorable was the path along the Statte stream, near Solwaster. Solwaster is a good-looking Ardennes village but like many others in the area doesn't open itself to the visitor. I guess it might be different if you're local or know the locals; as it were I constantly felt that I was just a tourist, someone who should leave some money to the local economy and leave as soon and as unobtrusively as possible.

The woods around the stream were a different matter: everything was in its reddish autumn colours, the water was trickling down quietly between small waterfalls and the trail was inviting - not too easy, not too difficult. It was a perfect setting for a stroll, along the Rocher de Blisse, the cave of the trolls (Sotals), along the stream, past a dolmen and the waterfall of the trolls (Cascade des Nutons - are there many names for trolls in French or were the translations poor?). One can walk for hours here, hidden among the pine trees, trampling on pebbles and red or yellow leaves, skimming and crossing the streams, going from one insignificant landmark to another, trying to find the promised vantage points that afford views of the local hills and villages, without thinking 0 just walking and listening to the ever-present water.

The return from a great hike like the doesn't make the village seem any friendlier. It seems even less friendly and quite indifferent about all one has to tell about its magnificent environment. It's a pity but thankfully one can leave with little delay.

Promenade des Artistes

Promenade des Artistes, Spa, Belgium

The town of Spa is a strange sprawl, probably the amalgamation of hamlets, possibly also in relation to the water sources that have formed the main attraction of the town for so long. There are many sources to visit, all strikingly devoid of tourists in the autumn. The water tastes funny, so it must be healthy, full of stuff that doesn't come out of your tap at home. Next to each source there's always a café or restaurant, often a bit worn out, with frequently indifferent staff, Still, they serve as a refuge from the mostly middle-aged visitors, usually hikers without great sporting ambitions and hence also without real hiking gear. There they can get a warm or cold drink, depending on what they need in the particular season, a snack or a hearty meal - an alternative to just drinking source water.

For these visitors there are many enjoyable routes around Spa, usually leading nowhere special - just an opportunity to stretch one's legs in the woods and get a tiny Ardennes experience. One that I have enjoyed was the Promenade des Artistes. I left the car on the side of the road and climbed down to the path next to a stream called La Picherotte. It's an easy terrain, comfortable even for city shoes. You can walk there without much care, just enjoying the scenery and your own movement through it. The path crosses over the stream many times, with picturesque wooden bridges, affording visitors many views of the trees and the mossy rocks.

I'd been walking for some times, lost in the mild, humid atmosphere of the Ardennes, when I started thinking it was time to walk back to the cart before it got too dark while I was deep in the woods but I still kept on going. Suddenly, I heard the sound of an ice cream van. Looking for such a wondrous meeting in the woods, I realised that I'd reached Spa. In fact, I'd been next to it all the time; it was just an illusion of the dense landscape that I was lost in nature.

A walk along the Promenade des Artistes