Statte, Solwaster

Statte, Solwaster

There are lots of places for a walk in the Ardennes. One that remains memorable was the path along the Statte stream, near Solwaster. Solwaster is a good-looking Ardennes village but like many others in the area doesn't open itself to the visitor. I guess it might be different if you're local or know the locals; as it were I constantly felt that I was just a tourist, someone who should leave some money to the local economy and leave as soon and as unobtrusively as possible.

The woods around the stream were a different matter: everything was in its reddish autumn colours, the water was trickling down quietly between small waterfalls and the trail was inviting - not too easy, not too difficult. It was a perfect setting for a stroll, along the Rocher de Blisse, the cave of the trolls (Sotals), along the stream, past a dolmen and the waterfall of the trolls (Cascade des Nutons - are there many names for trolls in French or were the translations poor?). One can walk for hours here, hidden among the pine trees, trampling on pebbles and red or yellow leaves, skimming and crossing the streams, going from one insignificant landmark to another, trying to find the promised vantage points that afford views of the local hills and villages, without thinking 0 just walking and listening to the ever-present water.

The return from a great hike like the doesn't make the village seem any friendlier. It seems even less friendly and quite indifferent about all one has to tell about its magnificent environment. It's a pity but thankfully one can leave with little delay.